Hello Dear reader,
Well, this is the acid test. How has my training been going? Am I up for the real deal, when presented with a timed challenge?
Well, I am glad to say, my trial run was a total success, and a real confidence booster.
I COMPLETED THE YORKSHIRE 3 PEAK 24 MILE CHALLENGE IN 9 HOURS 53 MINUTES!
Yes, that's 9 hours and 53 minutes, more than 2 hours inside the challenge target, and now I am officially a member of the 3 Peaks challenge club. Yes, the woven badge and certificate is on its way!
Here's the brief story of the event:
Originally this walk was planned for Saturday 18th May, but as the event drew closer and I kept a check on the weather, I could see that day was due to be awful, with heavy rain from dawn to dusk. However, the day after, Sunday was due to be glorious with white fluffy cloud and sunshine later on. Already knowing what the ground was going to be like underfoot, I took the sensible decision to delay the outing to Sunday, so at least it would be bright from the knees upwards!
As it happens, it was far too hot on Sunday, and I could have done with some cooling rain!
I have actually done all 3 of these mountains in the past, but never together in one day. Pen-Y-Ghen and Whernside were done with my dad on solo trips, and Ingleborough on a glorious snow bound Boxing day with the entire family.
I got up at 4am and aimed to be off by 5am to arrive for a 6am start. It was daylight by 5am and apart from going the wrong way at Settle, I got to Horton in reasonably good time. I parked next to the famous Pen-y-Ghent cafe and posted my details through the letter box so they could register my start time of 6.15am and set off to the church to register the official start.
| My official start time of just before 6.15am |
The weather was druich as they say in Scotland, or just plain old dank and misty. I could not see Pen-y-Ghent for the entire trek up and down the mountain, but knew where I was going. Here you see the path winding up into the mist. it was pretty boggy going, but I was adamant I would keep up a steady pace.
The target times for a 12 hours round were as follows:
- Pen-y-Ghent Summit 3 miles - 2.00 hours
- High Birkwith 7 miles - 3.45 hours
- Ribblehead 10.4 miles - 5.15 hours
- Whernside 14.2 miles - 7.35 hours
- Hill Inn 16.9 miles - 8.40 hours
- Ingleborough 19.4 miles - 10.20 hours
- Horton finish 24 miles - 12.00 hours
I pushed hard and passed 3 people on way up Pen-Y-Ghent. It was a surprisingly steep scramble towards the top, with some climbing on rocks to be negotiated. I was really surprised when I saw the summit trig point as I was not expecting it so soon. I knew I was just 1 hour into the challenge and knew I had to do it within 2 hours.
| Hmm, looking far too happy! |
If you click on this image below, you will see I got to the top of my first summit at 07.23, only 1 hour and 8 minutes in. That meant if I didn't stop, I had gained nearly an hour leeway.
| Reached top at 07.23 |
| Number 1 |
I did not wait even 30 seconds but charged off over style to connect back up with the Pennine Way down towards the dreaded Black Dubb Moss!
| Pennine Way down from Pen-Y-Ghent |
This was an excellent path and I knew straight away I was on a fast time as I nearly jogged down the hill.
I had done my research and knew any attempt to take the shortest and most direct route to the bottom via Black Dubb Moss would be suicide to any attempt at a quick time. Even in summer this bog can sap the physical and psychological reserves of even the fittest person. There are stories of people sinking up to their chest in bog. Karl even tried to go down this way a month ago, and ended up to his thighs in it.
Luckily, due to a hefty Lottery Grant, work had started last September to build a better path on a longer diversion around the bog, following the traditional fell runners route. This route takes you on a detour over Whitber Hill, so even though you have to climb again, it was definitely quicker in the long run.
| Diversion path over Whitber Hill |
Once I got to the bottom and rejoined the Pennine Way, this was the sign that greeted me.
Despite avoiding the Black Dub Moss bog, the ground underfoot was really bad. This made going really difficult as you slid around trying to gain a grip to move forward. If you attempted to avoid the worst of the mud by walking on the edge, you had to stumble over uneven reeds.
| Bog! |
As with Pen-Y-Ghen, you could not see Whernside, my next destination, for low cloud.
| Whernside is there somewhere! |
After about 1 mile you come to the point I leave the Pennine Way to head over High Birkwith to Ribbblehead. This path may well look reasonable on this photo, but believe me, this was like dancing on ice. This was a really tricky bit.
| Dancing on mud! |
| More mud |
| And more mud! |
There were loads of areas with limestone pavements along this route. Whilst normally, these are a beautiful addition to most walks, on this challenge, they present a difficult obstacle and slow you down dramatically.
One thing I noticed was the amount of discarded rubbish left by ignorant people who have utterly no respect for the environment. This included wrappers and drinks cartons and plastic bags. Then I came upon this area where clearly a group had simply decided to unload their entire arsenal of plastic bottles on the ground. Who the fuck do these people think is going to pick up this shit? What a bunch of lazy idiots. Take your own rubbish with you.
| Brainless morons who don't care about the environment |
I then crossed a stream at nether Lodge on the way to Ribblehead. I was feeling good at this stage and felt I was holding onto my 1 hour advantage.
As I crossed the stream, I heard the loud panting of a couple of fell runners coming closer and then passing me with a jaunty "good morning" as they passed. This would be the first of 4 times I would be passed by these 2 men. It brought to mind the tortoise and the hare story. They kept stopping for an ice cream, then drinks, then lunch. If they kept this up, I might even beat them at this rate!
It was just after the ice cream van that I got my first proper look at the Ribblehead viaduct. This would be my 10.4 mile marker, but I wasn't about to check on times until I hit the top of Whernside to ensure I was on track. However, I got comforting words of encouragement from a pensioner who scurried on ahead at break-neck speed shouting over his shoulder that I was making good time if I left at 06.15 that morning.
This was the last flat stretch before the very long 4 mile push up Whernside.
Here is the point I turned left and started the long climb up Whernside.
Weirdly, this was my only view of a waterfall on the entire route. I expected many more, but perhaps the conditions were not great to see more.
You can see the steep climb I had in store behind the waterfall.
The trudge up Whernside was endless, or so it felt. The path was a flagstone staircase that simply went on for ever, and in no way felt like a stairway to heaven. The frustration was that you could hear muffled disembodied voices ahead but never seemed to come upon their owners. This was disconcerting as you felt you were hearing people at the top, but this was a false dawn. I even came upon a couple with Spanish and Australian flags planted in the ground as they ate their pack lunches as if they had conquered Everest. I stopped and put hands on hips to savour my achievement, only for one of them to say, "Oh no, the top is 100 yards that way"!
I stumbled on and eventually came to the trig point of Whernside. Number 2 under my belt at last!
| Number 2 |
Again, I was looking far too happy, but in reality, this image below lets you know how I actually felt!
| This is how I really felt |
You can tell I was getting puddled by this stage as my maths was all to cock. Yes, I know, 5½ hrs plus 4½ hrs makes 10 hrs, so that was my time left to endure. Also, if it was to take 12 hours, I had another 6½ hrs, not 8 hrs, but there you go.
The route down from Whernside was unbelievably steep, which was a good test on the effectiveness of my knee braces I was wearing. The views on the way down were spectacular with further views of the Ribblehead viaduct in the distance.
I still had no view of Ingleborough, which continued to be lost in cloud.
| Long way over to Ingleborough lost in cloud |
I also had no reception on my mobile, a problem around the entire route. I had therefore decided to pop into the Hill Inn to call Karen to tell her to arrive in Horton 2 hours earlier so I wouldn't be hanging around. I got down to the pub on time and went in to ask for a pay phone. The barmaid said there wasn't one, but everyone just uses their landline. I felt really guilty, so offered to buy a drink! They had all the range of Dent ales, and I was sorely tempted to buy a pint, but opted for a half of Aviator. when I said I needed to let my "wife" know I was 2 hours ahead of schedule, she said, "well you can buy a pint then"!
When I got through to Karen, I said in earshot of the barmaid,"I'm being led astray by a wicked woman, plying me with alcohol"!
As I was getting my gear back on, an elderly chap eating his lunch said in typlical Yorkshire fashion, "which peaks have you done so far?". I said Pen-Y-Ghent and Whernside. He replied, " Oh well then, you've got the worst to come then. It is unbelievably steep going up Ingleborough!".
Great, thanks old man, that fills me with such joy.
Off I set in the depths of gloom.
As I was getting my gear back on, an elderly chap eating his lunch said in typlical Yorkshire fashion, "which peaks have you done so far?". I said Pen-Y-Ghent and Whernside. He replied, " Oh well then, you've got the worst to come then. It is unbelievably steep going up Ingleborough!".
Great, thanks old man, that fills me with such joy.
Off I set in the depths of gloom.
| Only to 2½ miles to 3rd Summit! |
When I saw this sign saying 2 3/8 miles to Ingleborough I even dared to think I could do the challenge in under 9 hours. So determined was I to clock the best time possible, I knew no limits. I knew I was still 2 hours ahead, even accounting for my half pint of Aviator. I knew from the chart that it would take about 1½ hours to get from the top back to Horton. I then assumed I could do that in 1 hour as I was pushing hard, so why not under 9 hours?
Putting aside the warnings of the old man in the pub, I skipped off oblivious of the pain that lay ahead!
| View of part of Ingleborough below cloud |
| View back at Whernside in cloud |
| Cloud now lifting |
It was now becoming swelteringly hot, and I was still in my rain gear, and steadily melting. I decided to stop and change into fresh clothes and put the mac away, hopefully for good.
The views back at Whernside where I had come from were now brilliant as the cloud cover lifted. She was a formidable looking peak now exposed.
Ingleborough was now slowly coming into view. One of my favourites in the Dales.
| Ingleborough slowly comes into view |
I knew from looking at the map about a thousand times that the ascent of Ingleborough was impossibly steep, but nothing could have prepared me for what lay ahead. The path simply went straight up the side, and didn't even deviate in a zig zag pattern as most do in the Lakes. The photograph below simply does not do justice to how steep this was.
| Path directly up the side of Ingleborough |
My technique for climbing very steep paths is not to look ahead but down at your feet. To look ahead is demoralising as you realise how much further there is to go, and can sap your remaining energy. I keep saying to myself, "This is your life. You know nothing else but this, and you have to move forward or die!" This may seem dramatic, but it honestly works for me. If you for one second think, bugger this, I can stop and feel better, that is what you will do, and it is a bugger to get going again.
As I started the totuous climb, I kept my head down and rested every 20 paces. Unfortunately, my ebergy reserves were running low, and I started to get cramp in my thighs as the strain was so intense on this section. I didn't panic, as this has happened before, and is quite understandable. I took on board more fluid and rested for 60 seconds and carried on. Eventually, I found it easier to simply sit on a step every 20 to 30 paces and recover. I knew once I was at the top, I would recover pretty quickly.
I had to keep to the time I was setting.
Eventually, I could see the top, and some women coming down told me I was nearly there. Once over the rise, I could see the final agomising steep climb to the top. Again, I took it in stages, and knew this was blowing my record time, but bugger it, I knew it was still a good time.
I saw the summit cairn now in the distance and hobbled over.
| Summit shelter at last |
I had made it at last, and my chance to take the picture I was waiting for.
| Number 3 at last! |
No time to bask in reflected glory. It's onwards, onwards, onwards! Keep going.
Once I limped down the summit scramble, I got onto the right path to Horton and again, a sense of euphoria overcame me. I can do this I said. I honestly can make it within 9½ hours. I had lost some time with the cramp on the ascent, but was still way ahead of schedule. I was practically jogging now, and if it was scheduled to take 1½ hours at normal pace, I would surely do it in 45 minutes.
| Looking back at Ingleborough on way down to Horton |
| View ahead on route down to Horton |
The next soul destroying obstacle is when you hit the limestone pavement soon after the 2 3/4 mile sign. Then you have to hop from one slot to the other looking for a solid place to put your feet. This slowed me down dramatically. I remember saying to myself at this point, it's the path that has defeated me, not my spirit or my energy. I was desperate though to ensure I at least got into Horton within 10 hours, which was my original target I set myself but never dared to believe I could achieve.
Eventually I went through my last kissing gate to the last field before crossing the railway line at Horton. Just as I started to cross the railway line I got a call from Karen. I answered without even a hello. I simply said, I want it noted, I am now in Horton and it is 16.05. I have officially made it within 10 hours.
I actually passed my parked car at 16.08 making my trek officially 9 hours and 53 minutes.
As I promised at the beginning, I set out below what I recall my times were at each milestone against the 12 hour times:
Marker Distance Target time Actual Time
This means, from Whernside onwards, I hit all the times as per the 12 hours target, and because of the 15 minutes having a drink in the Hill Inn, I lost valuable time there. I reckon if I did it again and was fresh like this time, I could do it in 9½ but no faster.
I plan to do 2 more long challenge walks before the big event. On Sunday 26th May, I will do the 32 mile 1066 way, but maybe not the entire route, but certainly at least 26 miles of it. Then the weekend after will be a long section of the Thames Path from Staines to Teddington. The last weekend before the big event will just be a shorter 10 - 12 mile walk to ensure I am fresh for the big one on 15th June.
Goodbye for now.
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